Friday, September 23, 2011

The $4,800 Handbag Under the Tree - Another Jolly Season because Luxury Goods - NYTimes.com

Public companies have to report gross margins -- the money they take in behind the costs of production their goods are discounted. For a well-run elegance company like Gucci or LVMH or a cosmetic mammoth like Estee Lauder, that digit commonly runs in excess of (occasionally well in excess of) 60 percentage of total revenue. That means the actual cost of production their matter, from sweaters to thigh-high leather boots, is less than 40 percent of the average price tag. (By contrast, gross margins at the Gap and other well-run chain apparel stores seldom rise on 45 percent.)

While most Americans would be content with a Sony Playstation 2 or a sweater twin set below the tree, for an increasing number of human mere cashmere does not mention ''I love you'' with quite the same administration as pashmina. Accustomed to luxury, these new-economy swells expect the most expensive version of everything -- and are presumable to get it.

In moments of reflection, every affluent shopper suspects that there is as much art as material in the difference between a Revlon lipstick bought at the drugstore for $8 and the By Terry counterpart from Saks Fifth Avenue, going for $49. And that the margin among an Omega Speedmaster, which usually retails at well over $3,000, and a $65 Timex i-Control prototype is as attributable to narcissism as to quality.

Theoretically,Altimeter Watches For Skydiving, that might be true, but if one insists on putting a price on luxury, enough of the industry's secrets have dripped out that it is possible to acquisition a mini enlightenment.

In fact, many luxury products attempt a level of craftsmanship, matters and service that are steps above what is accessible for even expensive mass-produced wares. Most high-end leather makers, from Coach to Escada, agree to fix and nourish their products for life. They too cater other shrewd guarantees to the acutely style-conscious -- making bags, for example, in the same shapes year after year, ensuring that a $500 investment today will be chic 10 years after.

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Nicole Miller ties can retail for $75 apiece. The cost, said a spokeswoman, Meredith Wollins, is partial for of incipient work by the company's graphics crew that is then hand screened onto the silk in Asia. The By Terry line of lipsticks uses particularly expensive dyes and manufactures only small batches, which, surely, heaves the price.

Then there is the intangible unit of craft. ''The genius to accomplish excellence is something you cannot put a price on,'' said Christiana Monfardini, an Escada spokeswoman.

Of course, the shopper ambitioning to buy 1.7 ounces of Sisley Paris's anti-aging emulsion ($300 by Neiman Marcus) alternatively the book-size dark nylon Prada knapsack ($570 by Prada stores) -- the required carry-on for East Hampton socialites last summer -- does not worry many almost how many it costs to make the product. And anyhow, your mean design-house administrative would scamper a race in her Manolo Blahniks ahead coughing up that classified message. ''We are uneasy even with the question,'' said Christina Kim, a spokeswoman for Hermes of Paris, whose Kelly handbags (middling size) sell for $4,800 at the Madison Avenue boutique.

But tall price is part of the pray, and these products are devised to mess the sub-lobe of the brain that makes cost-benefit measurements. The darkly shiny eye powders of Chanel or an artistic, logo-encrusted satchel by Louis Vuitton seduce in ways cheaper choices cannot: they cost more, but who can put a price tag on that one accompanying that makes an feel, for an instant, Vanderbilt-rich or Sophia-Loren-glam?

But since nobody would be quite so deflating for this phantom commerce as for a client to ascertain that a life-transforming cosmetic was actually hunk produced on a plant floor for $2 (the average industry price for lipstick), luxury-goods companies guard not secret more ferociously than the cost of making their wares.

The economy may be slowing and lots of dot-com stock options are underwater, but the top slice of income earners is still sitting ashore a big heap of wealth and their free-flowing extravagance is anticipated to propel such altitude purveyors of gilded baubles and designer delectables as Tiffany & Company, Neiman Marcus Group and LVMH-Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton into additionally dissimilar banner fiscal year.

Luxury merchandise are no, of way, necessarily valuable in utter terms, merely they about along definition cost more than the same productions at additional makers. It namely, case in point, equitable for possible apt purchase a $20 silk knot as a $75 version.

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